I wove a short length of Summer & Winter sample on the table loom this week. The warp is 2/20 mercerized cotton; the weft includes 2/20 cotton, 2/60 cotton, 2/17 wool, wool boucle in three sizes, and an unknown synthetic discontinued boucle. The sett is 36EPI. Here are some views.
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With boucle, it's better to exaggerate or simplify shapes they are not stripy or horizontal, unless you are trying to create that look. (Think Monet's Waterlilies.) I would love this in merino warp and merino or mixed boucle in the pattern weft in a bigger scale for jacket/coat fabric if I could sew, or for a skirt if my body shape were a bit more elongated...
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Dukagang creates the most visible design, but also the most blocky in appearance? At the top is the late, lamented discontinued yarn.
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In some places, I can see the shapes of individual units!
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I used 2/20 cotton in the tabby at the bottom, and 2/60 cotton towards the top. I don't know if you can tell, but naturally the pattern color is more saturated and the hand a tad slinkier, but the blocks need to be elongated to achieve the same appearance, i.e. more picks and longer to weave.
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I got a little sassier and used 2/60 cotton in the tabby in a pale yellow to create the metallic shine I like in combination with the warp color. I don't know if I achieved it, but it adds another dimension to the appearance of the cloth. A spool of orange (complementary) sewing thread in the tabby would be most interesting to experiment.
I don't like the hand of S&W in general, but particularly using 2/20 cotton both ways. Because I want to see the blocks I pack in the weft very tightly, creating a solid, unkind hand. I doubt I'd want to wear a blouse in this material. To remedy this, I could loosen the sett and the pick, but I'm not good at controlling my picks, so this will be a bit challenge.
I can tolerate the hand where I used 2/60 cotton in the tabby and 2/20 in the pattern. Wool boucle pattern wefts give sponginess to the cloth, which I like. In both of these cases, I have to make the blocks longer vertically if I were to weave the design I intended .
Thus far, I find the blocky look "old", and by this I mean, "dated", not historical or nostalgic. But using small blocks in a larger context and/or better use of colors could/would improve this, I think.
I'll fix the the threading mistake, (big strip in the middle, edited out from the photos :-P) and sample some more.
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